Heft 85/2010

des Instituts für Geodäsie

Heft 85/2010

HEICHEL, Wolfgang

Chronik der Erschließung des Karakorum

Teil II - Central Karakorum I

Mit 3 Falt- und 22 Detailkarten von J. Wala, 460 S.

Auflage:  250

ISSN:  0173-1009




Legende zu Karten und Anstiegsskizzen
1.  Einleitung 13
     1.1.  Abgrenzung und Untergliederung des Karakorum 13
             Übersichtskarte-Untergliederung Central Karakorum 18
             Übersichtskarte-Central Karakorum 19
     1.2.  Einteilung des Central Karakorum
2.  Erschließungsgeschichte 20
     2.1.  Kartographie und Entstehung des Namens Karakorum 20
     2.2.  Übersicht des Gebietes 25
     2.3.  Erschließung des Gebietes bis 1891 26
     2.4.  Übergreifende Expeditionen an dem Jahr 1892
3.  Erschließung der einzelnen Gebirgsgruppen 175
     3.1.  Rakaposhi-Malubiting-Gruppe 175
             3.1.1.  Karten, Pässe, Berge und Panoramen der

                        Karte Rakaposhi-Malubiting Group 176
                        Karte Silkiang Group 177
                        Karte Diran Group 178
                        Karte Bilchar Dobani Group 179
                        Karte Phuparash Group 180
                        Karte Koro Group und East Miar Glacier Group 182
                        Karte Malubiting Group und Laila Group  
     3.2.  Haramosh-Gruppe 282
             3.2.1.  Karten, Pässe, Berge und Panoramen der

                        Karte der Haramosh Group 282
                        Karte der Kapaltang Kun Group (Parabar Group) 283
                        Karte der Berginsho Group 284
                        Karte der Askor Group 285
                        Karten der Marshakala Group I 286
                        Karten der Marshakala Group II 287
     3.3.  Spantik-Sosbun-Gruppe 330
             3.3.1.  Karten, Pässe, Berge und Panoramen der

                        Karte der Barpu Group 330
                        Karte der Spantik Group 331
                        Karte der Makrong Group 332
                        Karte der Shingu kuru Group 333
                        Karte der Balchhish Group 334
                        Karte der Berelter Group 335
                        Karte der Sosbun Group 336
                        Karte der Ganchen Group 337
                        Karte der Gama Sokha Lumbu Group
4.  Anlagen 431
     4.1.  Karten  
             4.1.1.  Karten der Rakaposhi-Malubiting-Gruppe
                        (Maßstab  1 : 125 000)
             4.1.2.  Karten der Haramosh-Gruppe
                        (Maßstab  1 : 125 000)
             4.1.3.  Karten der Spantik-Sosbun-Gruppe
                        (Maßstab  1 : 125 000)
                        Diese drei Faltkarten befinden sich als Beilagen
                        am Ende der Chronik
     4.2.  Anstiegsrouten der Erstbesteigungen und -begehungen 431
     4.3.  Bibliographie 436
     4.4.  Orts- und Namensregister


„After two hours of sleep a small plane took us just after sunrise over the Himalayas to Skardu. What pictures! Mountain ranges follow mountain ranges – what a stamping ground for the Himalaya and Karakoram clubs that will emerge and will turn all this into a playground for an industrialized Eurasia some day.” This was written by Prof. Dr. Wilhelm Kick in his diary, when he explored in 1954 a part of what is represented in this volume.

Back in ancient times trade caravans crossed the passes of the Karakoram ranges from the grazing grounds in Turkestan to the Indus plains in the south. Sheer will to survive forced the merchants and their companions to surmount the Hunza and Balti passes on often rugged trails, the high peaks of the Rakaposhi or Diran mountain ranges forming an impressive scenery.

Mid-19th century from British colonial interests first survey expeditions came into the area. At the beginning of the 20th century, Conway, a British mountaineer, and the American alpinist Workman organized the first mountaineering expeditions. But not until after World War II began the actual development of mountaineering in the area.

One of the first German expeditions succeeded in 1955 in the first ascent of Spantik – one of the five summits higher than 7000 m. But then there was silence around the German spirit of exploration in this area. Above all British, Japanese, Italians and other nations explored and climbed many peaks. How can the reluctance of German mountaineers be explained?

This chronology documents the history of the exploration of Central Karakoram. It supports also the choice of interesting areas for mountaineering endeavors and carries forward the development of the chosen area. In Central Karakoram there are five mountains higher than 7000 m: Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Haramosh and Spantik – illustrious names! The number of unclimbed peaks over 6000 m and over 5000 m is still unknown.

Because of the many migrations of peoples, a large number of different nationalities live in the Karakoram mountains like Baltis, Hunzas, Nagar, Chitralis and Wakhis to name only the most important tribes.

Despite the war in neighboring Afghanistan, you can feel safe in Central Karakoram. The hospitality has remained high. Thus, the chronicle may also give important information to researchers and wayfarers. Even if maps have become more meaningful in recent years and Google promises great support, the detailed knowledge of the territory, which the chronicle provides, facilitates the success of any enterprise. Three folding maps and numerous terrain sketches may also offer help.

The Association for Comparative Alpine Research Munich is grateful to the Institute of Geodesy, Bundeswehr University Munich, for the publication of the chronicle in its series of scientific publications.

For the Association

Prof. Dr.-Ing. Dr. h.c. W. Welsch

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Kartenbeilage zu Heichel No. 1: Rakaposhi-Malubiting-Gruppe von Jerzy Wala


© 2012 Arbeitsgemeinschaft für vergleichende Hochgebirgsforschung e.V.
c/o Kommission für Erdmessung und Glaziologie
Bayerische Akademie der Wissenschaften, München

Kartenbeilage zu Heichel No. 2: Haramosh-Gruppe von Jerzy Wala


© 2012 Arbeitsgemeinschaft für vergleichende Hochgebirgsforschung e.V.
c/o Kommission für Erdmessung und Glaziologie
Bayerische Akademie der Wissenschaften, München

Kartenbeilage zu Heichel No. 3: Spantik-Sosbun-Gruppe von Jerzy Wala


© 2012 Arbeitsgemeinschaft für vergleichende Hochgebirgsforschung e.V.
c/o Kommission für Erdmessung und Glaziologie
Bayerische Akademie der Wissenschaften, München